The Five Basic Types of Outdoor Decks - And How to Choose the Best One for You

When you're ready to begin building a new deck, the first thing to ask yourself is what you want that deck to accomplish. Decks can bring your family years of enjoyment, and add value and beauty to your home, but it's rarely a good idea to simply build a deck without a plan in mind, simply for the sake of having a deck on your property. Sure, there are other issues to address - like, what kind of decking material you'll use (whether wood or composite decking), what kinds of plans you'll use, and how you'll fit your new deck (or decks - who knows, right?) in with local zoning regulations. But for right now, it's OK to fantasize about exactly what kind of deck will beautify your home.

So, without further ado, here are The Five Major Types of Outdoor Decks:

• Porch Decks. Yeah, that's right - porches are decks. If you'd like to step out of your front door onto a deck that winds its way around to the back door, you might be looking for a porch. These types of decks are best for rural homes, or houses with a lot of land around them. Porch decks give any home a classic Little House on the Prairie feel - only without the horses and lack of indoor heating.

• Barbecue Decks. Looking for a place where you can grill steaks without feeling trapped in the kitchen? Barbecue decks have become more popular with the recent grilling renaissance that's swept through American suburbs like a warm front in June. Real wood decking, or some of the woodier-looking composite decking materials, are best for barbecue decks, where you'll undoubtedly want to keep the rustic, outdoorsy tone that comes with these types of decking.

• Pool Decks. Well, maybe you don't have a pool yet. But if you get a pool, well, you've pretty much got to build a deck around it, right? (Use this reasoning if your family resists your argument that decks add value and beauty to homes.) Pool decks should be easy on bare feet, so decking with a smooth, satiny surface is your best bet for these kinds of decks. Some decking manufacturers make composite materials specifically designed to be easy on bare feet.

• Second-Story Decks. Where is it written that decks can only extend from the ground floor? Nowhere, that's where! Second-story decks are great for parties, and if built right, can double as carports. These are especially attractive in rural mountain homes, where they'll blend well with a hilly landscape.

• Free-Standing Decks. As decks go, these are probably the easiest to build, since you don't have to remove siding, attach the decking to your home, or otherwise risk damage to the house itself during construction. Of course, these decks will need structural support on all sides, so it's best to plan carefully.

So there they are: The Five Major Types of Outdoor Decks. But listen close and we'll tell you a secret: There are more than five. The number is limited only by your imagination, carpentry skills, and budget. Try combining ideas from the above list: Maybe you can extend a second-story deck to surround your above-ground pool. Decks can be a wonderful outlet for your creativity, so don't stop at these five. See what you can come up with on your own.

Good luck, and happy decking.

Kevin Ott writes about home improvement projects (like deck construction, basement remodeling and mold removal) and a wide variety of other topics. He writes for dozens of clients, including Sequoia Supply, the premier supplier of decking material in the Northeast.

Visit Sequoia Supply at http://decksupplies.com

Different Types of Carpet Pile

Carpeting can be a major purchase for your home. You want it to have a long life, look good, and be comfortable to walk on. Before you choose your carpet, it is important to understand the different types of carpet piles that are available and their advantages and disadvantages.

Carpeting pile can be divided into four primary categories:

• Cut Pile: This category includes Saxony, Texture, Velvet/Plush and Frieze carpets.
• Cut and Loop Pile: This category includes Berber carpets.
• Level Loop Pile:
• Multi-Level Loop Pile:

Cut Pile

Cut pile carpet is the most popular of all the carpeting, with textured cut pile outselling all the others. A cut pile carpet is manufactured by cutting all of the looped fibers at the top of the bundles. This creates a carpet with yarn bundles that stand straight. To create a luxurious appearance the cut pile is pre-sheared several times. Cut pile carpet, as compared to other styles is the least resistant to crushing.

Saxony

In order to manufacture a Saxony carpet, the fibers are twisted tightly, cut and then straightened using heat. A Saxony carpet consists of two or more fibers twisted together to produce a yarn. The soft texture of a Saxony carpet works well in both formal and informal rooms. If you do not want to see foot prints on your carpet, then do not use a Saxony, as it will show all foot prints and tracks from a vacuum cleaner. Saxony carpets have a medium level of durability.

Texture & Textured Saxony

The best selling carpets are Textures. Textures work very well in family rooms, childrens bedrooms, and other informal areas within a home, primarily because of their soft feel under foot. Textures are produced with tightly twisted fibers and are set with heat creating a medium durability carpet. Texture carpets have a multi-color appearance that hides any footprints and other tracks.

Velvet & Plush

Velvets and Plush carpeting are manufactured with a uniform color and a light twist. Because of the light twist, they are softer than Texture carpet. Because of its visual luxury and feel, Velvet and Plush carpeting is perfect for living rooms, master bedrooms, and other formal areas within the home. These carpets will show all traffic marks.

Frieze

For high traffic areas, a Frieze carpet is recommended. Perfect for informal areas the fibers are made of a highly twisted cut pile carpet. Frieze carpets have short fibers that curl in all directions at the surface, which has the effect of hiding all footprints and vacuum cleaner tracks.

Cut & Loop Pile

Both cut and looped fibers are combined in order to produce a Cut and Loop pile carpet. With a medium density, it provides a vast array of textures and/or sculptured effects available in solid and colored patterns. One of the advantages of the cut and loop carpet is that because of the different levels of yarn the carpet hides dirt, stains and footprints exceptionally well. The carpet is used in both formal and informal areas in the home.

Berber

The carpet with the highest growth in popularity is the Berber. In an informal area, Berbers limit footprints and vacuum tracks. Berbers have a very high durability because they can have thicker yarns than other level loop pile carpet. Two negatives with respect to Berber carpets are, they retain dirt and are easily damaged by snags to the loops. Berbers are made of natural fibers such as wool and man made fibers such as nylon, olefin, or nylon-olefin fibers.

Level Loop Pile

For the best carpet in durability, ideal for high traffic areas and resistance to marks you should choose a carpet made with Level Loop pile techniques. These types of carpets are made by weaving even loops of yarn through both ends of the carpets backing. By using higher loops the carpet has a much more luxurious appearance. For easy cleaning a Level Loop carpet utilizing short and densely packed loops is easy to clean as they prevent dirt from filtering into carpet.

Multi-Level Loop Pile

The difference between Multi-Level Loop pile and Level Loop pile is that with Level Loop Pile all of the loops of yarn are at the same height and with the Multi-Level Loop the heights of the yarn varies. The Multi-Level Loop creates a random texture making it a good choice for high traffic areas. The primary negative of this type of carpet is that the small loops have a tendency to hold more dirt and dust.

For additional information on flooring products for your home or other renovation projects including landscaping and gardening, visit Renovation Headquarters

Aromatherapy In Your Bathroom - Making Sense of Scents

What comes to mind when you think of a long, relaxing soak in your tub? Odds are that you're thinking candles and maybe some essential oils. If you're not then it's a good idea to introduce you to them now. Including aromatherapy in your bath routine is a great way to add extra relaxation to the whole process of bathing. Not only can aromatherapy relax you it can also just as quickly recharge your body and fill you with energy.

Bath Tub Aromatherapy

There's a wealth of aromatherapy products that you can use in the bath tub - it's almost overwhelming trying to choose at times. You can choose from bubble bath, pure essential oils, bath oils right down to soaps and bath salts. Then you can go about what scent you want to use. If you can't decide which to pick and are on the verge of despair then why not try out an aromatherapy bath kit. These kits usually include several aromatherapy options, so you can decide which is your favorite.

Aromatherapy with Candles

Using aromatherapy candles is a great choice for people who want to enjoy bathroom aromatherapy, but don't like cleaning slimy residue out of their tubs or are concerned about the effect on their plumbing from all of all that slippery oily stuff going down the drain. You can burn several candles of the same scent or choose several scents that complement each other to create your own custom scent for your bathing experience.

Aromatherapy Scents

Certain aromatherapy scents can help you relax. Others will invigorate you entirely. If you're needing a good nights sleep then combine lavender, chamomile, vanilla or lemon scents. If you're needing an energy boost for a busy day then use peppermint, spearmint, rosemary or clary sage to give your body that much needed boost.

When you're going shopping for bathroom aromatherapy products bear in mind that not all of these products are created equal. Here's some tips for when you go shopping:

* Check the ingredients on the product and make sure it actually uses essential oils and not artificial scents. Artificial scents have no therapeutic value at all.

If you are shopping for candles, make sure the ones you buy do not have lead wicks. Lead wicks are potentially dangerous when used around children.

* Look for soy candles that have the essential oils mixed the whole way through the wax. Soy candles burn much more cleanly and the scent will remain right to the last flame.

Don't you just love a long relaxing soak in your tub? Why not make it even more relaxing and refreshing by trying some bathroom aromatherapy with essential oils. Read more now: http://www.bathroomcentral.com

Curtains Can Decorate Either Your Window Or Your View

Pick Of Your Curtains Should Go With The Surroundings:

There is zilch more hospitable than the vista of a house that is crammed with vivid yellow illumination. You will find however that most of these houses have curtains casing the windows. Depending on the type of curtain that is used the central of the house will be either less palpable, completely covered or you will be able to see right inside. You will need to decide the window curtains that you will get satisfaction from. There are many different styles of window curtains that you will be able to choose from. Many of them are quite suitable for all types of windows. There are styles that will however look best in certain backgrounds only. For this reason when you are looking to drape some curtains in your home you may want to consider a few facts. The first fact is how utterly you want your home bunged from snooping eyes.

Plain curtains can have precincts of ponytail that distinguish with them attached or complementary borders, made from fabric, can be inset into the curtains leading circumference. In both of these instances it is very important to get the dimensions spot on. A good rule to follow is that the width of the braid should be approximately the same as the width of the curtain border. Borders can be applied to both the bottom and the leading edge of your indispensable curtains but it is important to carefully miter the corners so that you end up with a proficient looking draw to a close.

Pole Curtains sometimes said as rods go afar function and broaden into part of the window design it. Curtains that are made to dangle from a extremity are made to reveal the pole when the curtains are pulled open. If they are cut in a tab top fashion or something similar, then the pole becomes part of the window treatment even when the curtains are drawn closed

Track Curtains recommend an absolutely singular style than Pole Curtains. The follow is not in the main part of the design and is usually made in such a way that it is completely covered by the curtain whether open or drawn shut. Track curtains are ideal for layered curtains and have the benefit of being controlled by a illustrate thread. People often use track curtains for a more formal look. It is important to remember that you want your room to be inviting, not overpowering. Choosing warm and subtle colors that pick up the color scheme of your furniture will only enhance the over all seem to be of your room. Whether you choose to hang sheers or drapes, cotton or swags, what matters most is that you choose carefully any window healing you mull over.

You can also find more info on Curtain Rings and Curtain Rods. Homecurtainsonline.com is a comprehensive resource to know about Curtains & Drapes.

Front Porch Design, Planning & Building In The UK

So, youre thinking about adding a new Porch to your home and looking for the best advice and designs? Congratulations! Keep reading, all will be revealed.

There are many great reasons to add a new Porch to your home. You may have not considered them all. Here are the main ones:

You want to improve the visual entrance to your home, internally and externally.
Increase the value of your home
Create more space and more light
Provide your home with the added security of a second door
Cut energy bills keep warmth in

Some people have found additional uses too as Porches can make great Storage areas for shoes, coats and in some cases even tropical plants!

Do I Need Porch Planning Permission?

Its the most frequently asked question so heres the answer:

The majority of Porches built in the UK do not require planning permission as they fall into the category of Permitted Development Providing that:

The ground area of the new Porch does not exceed 3 Square Metres
The height does not exceed 3 Metres above ground level
No part of a Front Porch is closer than 2 Metres to any highway
The building of your new Porch does not encroach on or over your neighbours property.
Your home is not a listed building or within a conservation area

These are the general guidelines although I would recommend that you seek clarification with your local planning department.

If you are looking to have a new Porch built within the Midlands or Milton Keynes, feel free to get in touch with us at Trustyle-uk.co.uk with any questions. Our qualified designers are always on hand to help with any questions on planning and design.

Designing The Ideal Porch For Your Home

Designing the perfect porch for your home is easy when you know how. Many get this crucial bit wrong though. Even the most conscientious of home- owners with the best intentions can get this wrong.

I recently spoke to one of our best designers about this very issue and he provided me with these excellent tips:

Firstly, the new front Porch should compliment the existing home. Of course, everybody knows this but getting this part right is the most important part of the designers job. Do this right and you could easily gain more value to a home than the cost of the Porch itself.

The size of the Porch shouldnt be too big as to dominate the front of the house or project forward of the bay.

When considering the Porch roof, take a look at your homes style, roof and age. If you have large gabled two story bay windows, a pitched roof will look far better than a flat roof. (A pitched roof is a term for roofs which look like upside down Vs)

Flat Porch roofs are better placed on flat fronted homes where the roofs run flat and straight across the front of your home. It might seem straight forward but start looking around and youll see homes with pitched roofs and bay windows with flat roof Porches extending fully along to the bay Most feel that this detracts from the houses potential.

If you have protruding bay windows, never look to extend it to form an enclosed Porch. There are other more appealing designs to go for regardless of the shape of your bay. Youll be looking to bring appeal to your home and that of the neighbourhood.

The materials used to build the Porch should depend on the existing house and Porches can come fully glazed using timber or UPVC or half glazed using brickwork, timber or UPVC. Porches often have more glazing than masonry.

All new brickwork should match the existing house using the same bond and mortar. Existing house style, windows, doors and brickwork are all considered by our designers to create the perfect match and balance.

The finishing touch is the right door to complete your Porch. At Trustyle-uk.co.uk we have a vast range of fully sculptured doors and together, we find the right match, visual appeal and security for your home.

Building A Porch - Terms

Eaves
Where the roof overhangs the house wall

Bond And Mortar
Method or pattern of laying bricks together with the particular bedding material used between the bricks.

Soldier Course
This is a continuous straight line of upright brickwork.

Door Canopies
Is a roof over a front door, sometimes supported by posts.

Stepped Houses
Where a part of the house is built further forward than another.

Recessed Doorways
Where the front door sits further back than the rest of the houses front wall, normally with a roof or a protruding first floor room above.

Pitched Roof
Where a roof forms the shape of an upside down V.

Halls Adjoining Houses
Is a pair of attached houses where the front doors are next to each other.

About the authors:

www.Trustyle-UK.co.uk design, build and supply a stylish sculptured Porch range, built to last with 10 year guarantees across Leicester, Loughborough, Nottingham, Corby, Coventry, Bedford, Northampton, the Midlands and Milton Keynes.

Trustyle UK LTD. Permission to use this article is granted on the basis that it is reproduced in its entirety and not edited, changed or altered in any way. Trustyle UK LTD accept no liability for any inacuracies presented within this article.

House porch

What Does It Cost To Build A Home In Ocala

Marion County, where the city of Ocala is located, has seen burgeoning growth, and it continues to rapidly rise till the present day, and is dramatically changing the face of the county. Nowhere is that more evident than on State Road 200, where commercial and residential development moved at a fever pitch. In 1995, Ocala was named the fifth best place to live in the U.S. by Money magazine.

The city was named an All-America City earlier in the year, and moved up in the national rankings from 78th place in 1994. It was also named the second best mid-sized metropolitan area in the nation and the second best city in the South. The city offers investors with not just lovely horse farms and estates, which Ocala is famous for, but also an assortment of industries and employment opportunities ranging from electronics, aerospace development, manufacturing, real estate and tourism.

Affordable Housing

Marion County, as well as Ocala, offers several affordable housing programs for income-eligible households. The County provides medium-income families a State Housing Initiative Partnership or SHIP, and the Community Development Block Grant or CDBG for home purchase or rehabilitation outside of the city limits.

In Ocala, the CDBG Housing Rehabilitation Program, which utilizes federal funds, along with the s5B4tate-funded SHIP program is offered to income eligible residents who wish to buy homes within the city limits. Each year, several home events are also hosted by the city, expose potential buyers to the area's developers.

Two of the city's major annual events are the annual spring Parade of Homes and the Fall Showcase of Homes. The Marion County Building Industry Association sponsors both events. Homes usually range from the more affordable end of just over $100,000 to those considered in the luxury price range of over $500,000.

Tips For Ocala Home-seekers

The local local realtors association is a good first step in looking for a nice home. Most local brokers suggest stopping by the local Chamber of Commerce for those new to the area and looking for a house. They note that a wealth of information is available to help make the search easier. In addition to contacting a local property broker of choice and getting referrals from peers, they also suggest getting in the car and driving around town, to better learn the area.

For the second quarter of 2007, the median prices of homes in Marion County was pegged at $170,900, which represents a slight jump from $169,500 for the same period in 2006. The National Association of Realtors reported a U.S. median home price of $223,800 for the second quarter of 2007 compared to $227,100 in 2006. Statewide, the median price for the period was $221,200, down from $243,300 in 2005A56.

Most major housing indicators show the market in Ocala is leaning toward the area of being a buyer's market. Housing analysts say this is being driven by the increasing inventory of both new and existing homes. During 2006-2007, Marion County reported 2,698 permits for construction of single-family homes, which is down from 6,355 in the 2005-2006 fiscal year.

As for construction of multi-family homes, which include condos, town homes and apartments, there was a slight increase in 2007 with 48 permits versus 37 permits in 2006.

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http://www.fountainsatgolfpark.com/fountains/index.htm - Ocala Real Estate

Installing Drywall: Mudding and Taping

Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the professionals usually refer to the task, can be done by the homeowner. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry.

Measuring and Ordering Drywall

Prior to actually hanging the drywall, the material first needs to be ordered and delivered. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. The result should give you the number of 4x 8 sheets of drywall required for the job. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4x12, however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home.

For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.

For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock.

Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects.

Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required. Typically I use 1.25 length screws or nails. Also, strips of corner bead will be required.

Drywall Tools

Prior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain the proper tools. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. You can rent Drywall Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2x 4s. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than the height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3 in width. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the main stem of the Jack. The Jack can then be used to hold up the drywall to the ceiling while it is screwed/nailed into place.

In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.

If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. For the taping knifes you will need a 6 wide blade and a 12 wide blade.

Preparing the site for Drywall

Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure the building inspector has first approved the Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.

Finally, inspect all of the framing carefully. Ensure that nailers (e.g. 2 x 4s) are existent at each corner and header, that the framing is straight, and that the framed walls create smooth planes. In addition, the ceiling should have strapping applied (1 x 3 cross boards). Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire.

Safety

Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in the material. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades.

Installing Drywall

Start with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.g. 12 inches. It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field afterwards.

Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall.

After the ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to the walls. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. Again the rows should be staggered. The bottom piece should sit about inches from the sub-floor.

For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. This will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save significant time.

Installing Corner bead

Once the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges. Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the framing.

Taping and Mudding

Again start with the ceiling. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6 wide taping knife. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Once the tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over the tape, again using the 6 wide taping knife. Continue this for all of the seams. Note: the tape will still be visible. Additional coats will eventually hide it.

The inside corners are usually the most tricky and require practice. Patience is the best advice and note that additional coats will be applied later to smooth out any imperfections.

Once the seams are done, using the 6 wide taping knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. A skim coat is all that is initially required.

Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. This will reduce sanding later.

Once the ceiling is done, you can move on to the walls. Repeat the same process, however with the outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint compound to the valley that is formed by the corner bead. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner.

Once the first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Second Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the second coat of mud. It is this coat that should hide the tape.

Again, start with the ceiling. Using the wider taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound over the taped seams as you want to build up the area over the tape. Taking large strokes smooth the joint compound over the tape applying more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape. This will help to leave more mud over the tape. When complete, the mud should cover an area that extends beyond the width of the tape by 2 to 3 inches.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.

For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the Corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Take long, even strokes. A 6 taping knife may also be helpful to smooth out any imperfections.

For the outside corners, using the broad taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and flare out the material such that it extends out 6 inches or so from the corner. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the outside corner.

Once the second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Final Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the final coat of mud. It is this coat that requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to the already mudded areas.

Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded surfaces. This will remove any bumps or ridges.

Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife. Again continue to flare out the seam by extending the mudded area such that about 6 inches resides on each side of the now invisible tape. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter.

For the corners use the broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples.

Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,

Sanding

Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask. I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud.

Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into the main surface areas.

Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the dust and you are ready for priming and painting the walls and texturing the ceilings.

Me_Donovan@comcast.net
http://www.homeadditionplus.com
http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. Mr. Donovan's formal education and profession have been as an Electrical Engineer and Marketing Manager.