Front Porch Design, Planning & Building In The UK

So, youre thinking about adding a new Porch to your home and looking for the best advice and designs? Congratulations! Keep reading, all will be revealed.

There are many great reasons to add a new Porch to your home. You may have not considered them all. Here are the main ones:

You want to improve the visual entrance to your home, internally and externally.
Increase the value of your home
Create more space and more light
Provide your home with the added security of a second door
Cut energy bills keep warmth in

Some people have found additional uses too as Porches can make great Storage areas for shoes, coats and in some cases even tropical plants!

Do I Need Porch Planning Permission?

Its the most frequently asked question so heres the answer:

The majority of Porches built in the UK do not require planning permission as they fall into the category of Permitted Development Providing that:

The ground area of the new Porch does not exceed 3 Square Metres
The height does not exceed 3 Metres above ground level
No part of a Front Porch is closer than 2 Metres to any highway
The building of your new Porch does not encroach on or over your neighbours property.
Your home is not a listed building or within a conservation area

These are the general guidelines although I would recommend that you seek clarification with your local planning department.

If you are looking to have a new Porch built within the Midlands or Milton Keynes, feel free to get in touch with us at Trustyle-uk.co.uk with any questions. Our qualified designers are always on hand to help with any questions on planning and design.

Designing The Ideal Porch For Your Home

Designing the perfect porch for your home is easy when you know how. Many get this crucial bit wrong though. Even the most conscientious of home- owners with the best intentions can get this wrong.

I recently spoke to one of our best designers about this very issue and he provided me with these excellent tips:

Firstly, the new front Porch should compliment the existing home. Of course, everybody knows this but getting this part right is the most important part of the designers job. Do this right and you could easily gain more value to a home than the cost of the Porch itself.

The size of the Porch shouldnt be too big as to dominate the front of the house or project forward of the bay.

When considering the Porch roof, take a look at your homes style, roof and age. If you have large gabled two story bay windows, a pitched roof will look far better than a flat roof. (A pitched roof is a term for roofs which look like upside down Vs)

Flat Porch roofs are better placed on flat fronted homes where the roofs run flat and straight across the front of your home. It might seem straight forward but start looking around and youll see homes with pitched roofs and bay windows with flat roof Porches extending fully along to the bay Most feel that this detracts from the houses potential.

If you have protruding bay windows, never look to extend it to form an enclosed Porch. There are other more appealing designs to go for regardless of the shape of your bay. Youll be looking to bring appeal to your home and that of the neighbourhood.

The materials used to build the Porch should depend on the existing house and Porches can come fully glazed using timber or UPVC or half glazed using brickwork, timber or UPVC. Porches often have more glazing than masonry.

All new brickwork should match the existing house using the same bond and mortar. Existing house style, windows, doors and brickwork are all considered by our designers to create the perfect match and balance.

The finishing touch is the right door to complete your Porch. At Trustyle-uk.co.uk we have a vast range of fully sculptured doors and together, we find the right match, visual appeal and security for your home.

Building A Porch - Terms

Eaves
Where the roof overhangs the house wall

Bond And Mortar
Method or pattern of laying bricks together with the particular bedding material used between the bricks.

Soldier Course
This is a continuous straight line of upright brickwork.

Door Canopies
Is a roof over a front door, sometimes supported by posts.

Stepped Houses
Where a part of the house is built further forward than another.

Recessed Doorways
Where the front door sits further back than the rest of the houses front wall, normally with a roof or a protruding first floor room above.

Pitched Roof
Where a roof forms the shape of an upside down V.

Halls Adjoining Houses
Is a pair of attached houses where the front doors are next to each other.

About the authors:

www.Trustyle-UK.co.uk design, build and supply a stylish sculptured Porch range, built to last with 10 year guarantees across Leicester, Loughborough, Nottingham, Corby, Coventry, Bedford, Northampton, the Midlands and Milton Keynes.

Trustyle UK LTD. Permission to use this article is granted on the basis that it is reproduced in its entirety and not edited, changed or altered in any way. Trustyle UK LTD accept no liability for any inacuracies presented within this article.

House porch

What Does It Cost To Build A Home In Ocala

Marion County, where the city of Ocala is located, has seen burgeoning growth, and it continues to rapidly rise till the present day, and is dramatically changing the face of the county. Nowhere is that more evident than on State Road 200, where commercial and residential development moved at a fever pitch. In 1995, Ocala was named the fifth best place to live in the U.S. by Money magazine.

The city was named an All-America City earlier in the year, and moved up in the national rankings from 78th place in 1994. It was also named the second best mid-sized metropolitan area in the nation and the second best city in the South. The city offers investors with not just lovely horse farms and estates, which Ocala is famous for, but also an assortment of industries and employment opportunities ranging from electronics, aerospace development, manufacturing, real estate and tourism.

Affordable Housing

Marion County, as well as Ocala, offers several affordable housing programs for income-eligible households. The County provides medium-income families a State Housing Initiative Partnership or SHIP, and the Community Development Block Grant or CDBG for home purchase or rehabilitation outside of the city limits.

In Ocala, the CDBG Housing Rehabilitation Program, which utilizes federal funds, along with the s5B4tate-funded SHIP program is offered to income eligible residents who wish to buy homes within the city limits. Each year, several home events are also hosted by the city, expose potential buyers to the area's developers.

Two of the city's major annual events are the annual spring Parade of Homes and the Fall Showcase of Homes. The Marion County Building Industry Association sponsors both events. Homes usually range from the more affordable end of just over $100,000 to those considered in the luxury price range of over $500,000.

Tips For Ocala Home-seekers

The local local realtors association is a good first step in looking for a nice home. Most local brokers suggest stopping by the local Chamber of Commerce for those new to the area and looking for a house. They note that a wealth of information is available to help make the search easier. In addition to contacting a local property broker of choice and getting referrals from peers, they also suggest getting in the car and driving around town, to better learn the area.

For the second quarter of 2007, the median prices of homes in Marion County was pegged at $170,900, which represents a slight jump from $169,500 for the same period in 2006. The National Association of Realtors reported a U.S. median home price of $223,800 for the second quarter of 2007 compared to $227,100 in 2006. Statewide, the median price for the period was $221,200, down from $243,300 in 2005A56.

Most major housing indicators show the market in Ocala is leaning toward the area of being a buyer's market. Housing analysts say this is being driven by the increasing inventory of both new and existing homes. During 2006-2007, Marion County reported 2,698 permits for construction of single-family homes, which is down from 6,355 in the 2005-2006 fiscal year.

As for construction of multi-family homes, which include condos, town homes and apartments, there was a slight increase in 2007 with 48 permits versus 37 permits in 2006.

Vanessa A. Doctor from Jump2Top - SEO Company

http://www.fountainsatgolfpark.com/fountains/index.htm - Ocala Real Estate

Installing Drywall: Mudding and Taping

Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the professionals usually refer to the task, can be done by the homeowner. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry.

Measuring and Ordering Drywall

Prior to actually hanging the drywall, the material first needs to be ordered and delivered. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. The result should give you the number of 4x 8 sheets of drywall required for the job. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4x12, however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home.

For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.

For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock.

Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects.

Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required. Typically I use 1.25 length screws or nails. Also, strips of corner bead will be required.

Drywall Tools

Prior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain the proper tools. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. You can rent Drywall Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2x 4s. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than the height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3 in width. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the main stem of the Jack. The Jack can then be used to hold up the drywall to the ceiling while it is screwed/nailed into place.

In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.

If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. For the taping knifes you will need a 6 wide blade and a 12 wide blade.

Preparing the site for Drywall

Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure the building inspector has first approved the Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.

Finally, inspect all of the framing carefully. Ensure that nailers (e.g. 2 x 4s) are existent at each corner and header, that the framing is straight, and that the framed walls create smooth planes. In addition, the ceiling should have strapping applied (1 x 3 cross boards). Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire.

Safety

Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in the material. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades.

Installing Drywall

Start with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.g. 12 inches. It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field afterwards.

Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall.

After the ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to the walls. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. Again the rows should be staggered. The bottom piece should sit about inches from the sub-floor.

For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. This will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save significant time.

Installing Corner bead

Once the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges. Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the framing.

Taping and Mudding

Again start with the ceiling. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6 wide taping knife. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Once the tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over the tape, again using the 6 wide taping knife. Continue this for all of the seams. Note: the tape will still be visible. Additional coats will eventually hide it.

The inside corners are usually the most tricky and require practice. Patience is the best advice and note that additional coats will be applied later to smooth out any imperfections.

Once the seams are done, using the 6 wide taping knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. A skim coat is all that is initially required.

Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. This will reduce sanding later.

Once the ceiling is done, you can move on to the walls. Repeat the same process, however with the outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint compound to the valley that is formed by the corner bead. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner.

Once the first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Second Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the second coat of mud. It is this coat that should hide the tape.

Again, start with the ceiling. Using the wider taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound over the taped seams as you want to build up the area over the tape. Taking large strokes smooth the joint compound over the tape applying more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape. This will help to leave more mud over the tape. When complete, the mud should cover an area that extends beyond the width of the tape by 2 to 3 inches.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.

For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the Corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Take long, even strokes. A 6 taping knife may also be helpful to smooth out any imperfections.

For the outside corners, using the broad taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and flare out the material such that it extends out 6 inches or so from the corner. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the outside corner.

Once the second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Final Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the final coat of mud. It is this coat that requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to the already mudded areas.

Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded surfaces. This will remove any bumps or ridges.

Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife. Again continue to flare out the seam by extending the mudded area such that about 6 inches resides on each side of the now invisible tape. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter.

For the corners use the broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples.

Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,

Sanding

Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask. I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud.

Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into the main surface areas.

Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the dust and you are ready for priming and painting the walls and texturing the ceilings.

Me_Donovan@comcast.net
http://www.homeadditionplus.com
http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. Mr. Donovan's formal education and profession have been as an Electrical Engineer and Marketing Manager.

How to Use Columns

In recent years, the use of columns in the design of public spaces such as plazas and hotel atriums has shown their wide range of uses. Columns can be a part of the structure in a load-bearing or weight-bearing capacity or purely decorative, and the types of materials from which they can be made are practically endless. The styles available, too, are too many to describe, ranging from stock traditional Roman or Greek columns to specially customized designs t1C5Ehat you create.

With these three column components, you can create an infinite number of columns to suit an infinite number of needs. You're limited only by your imagination as almost anything you come up with can be made by a good manufacturer.

Porch Columns

The word "porch" is derived from the Greek "portico," which means a columned entry to a temple. So it is an appropriate acknowledgment of history that porches remain one of the most popular places for columns, whether they are incorporated into the porch railing or stand alone.

Porch columns are available today in a number of designs that help define the front of the house. The more elaborate choice might be a fluted porch column with decorative rings at the top and base, following one of the Roman styles. Round porch columns are made that provide two architectural design choices. Tapered round columns provide a formal touch. Traditional round columns bring elegance as well. Square columns are reminiscent of America's rural tradition.

Porch columns today are manufactured from both wood and synthetics. Fiberglass porch columns have become a popular architectural alternative to wood because they require little maintenance: fiberglass porch columns won't crack, peel or warp.

Exterior Columns

A number of exterior uses for columns are also prominent in today's architectural stylings. For example, a column makes a great base for a garden birdbath or sun dial. Custom sizes can be made from almost any material to create a staggered look or uniform appearance for repeat pieces or complementary ones, as you prefer.

Columns can be used as seats in a garden. Wide bases can be used as a table and smaller bases can be used as side tables. Another interesting exterior use: stepping stones or stairs up to an elevated area or a deck. Columns also work well as fence posts for decks or around the yard. A grand choice would be a walkway or driveway up to the house with columns on each side. Whether covered or uncovered, this creates quite a first impression, adding formality to the look and a great deal of value to the home.

Interior Columns

As new home design has turned to extensive use of wide open spaces, interior columns have become a significant architectural tool. Open floor plans usually incorporate kitchens and eating areas with dens. Architects will often provide breaks in these expanses by using interior columns incorporated with a slight change in elevation. A variation on this concept is a divider between kitchen and den area that has interior columns spaced across the open area above the divider.

Columns are also often used to help define a dining area that is part of a living room. The use of interior columns with furnishings such as sideboards or opaque folding screens between them can frame off an area around the dining table without creating a separate room. These columns can also provide a load bearing function when necessary, serving a practical as well as a decorative purpose.

Decorative Columns

Depending on the interior decorator's motif, these columns may appear to be wood, marble or stone. In most cases however, decorative columns are made from fiberglass, perhaps some sort of fiberglass and stone composite, coated aluminum or pre-cast plaster. Decorative columns are by definition non load-bearing columns, and so can be made from whatever material is appropriate to match the surrounding decorative style and keep maintenance to a minimum.

PolyClassicColumns.com is the leading provider of interior/exterior architectural columns. Using the finest materials to craft superior products, it is undoubtedly matchless in customization, variety, and quality. To find out more, please visit polyclassiccolumns.com.

See What Your Home Remodel Will Look Like Before You Invest

A problem faced by anyone contemplating home improvements, interior decorating, landscaping, or a major remodel of their home with the addition of a second story or a new room is what will the project look like after it is completed.

Technology has now come to the aid of professionals, home handymen, and women by providing software packages that perform and display all aspects of home improvement, decorating, landscaping and even a total remodel of a home.

For the interior designer or decorator these software programs allow you to drag and drop images of interior furnishings such as chairs, tables, sofas, lamps, and buffets. You can even hang pictures on walls and change the flooring. Do you want to know how the room would look if the colors were different? One click and you can see the room in any color you desire. Change window coverings from blinds to drapes, add a chandelier in the dining room, or change your kitchen appliances from white to black and then to silver.

The programs are so detailed that you can see different fabric choices on sofas and the throw pillows that accompany them.

You can see where shadows will appear depending on the style of light fixture that you choose.

Will French doors suit the entry to the family room? Its an expensive exercise to install them and then determine that they do not work with the rest of the dcor. With the software programs available you can add the French doors before you invest!

Will a 20 x 30 foot deck look ridiculous on the back of your home? Will there be enough room for a swing-set and sandbox for the kids if you add a water feature to your landscaping? Should the fence be painted white or left natural? All of these questions can be easily answered by doing your landscaping in virtual 3D reality.

Having a problem visualizing whether your new second story addition would look better with a shingled gable roof or a metal or clay tile mansard design? With the software programs, you can change roof design and/or materials with a click or your mouse.

Homeowners spend tens of thousands of dollars remodeling a kitchen or bathroom and never really know how it will appear until it is completed. Now you can make major or minor modifications to any design without cost.

And, to make viewing your proposed changes ultra convenient the software provides you with 3D viewing, which means you can literally see the room from any angle you choose. How would the room look if you are sitting on the sofa or standing at the entry or in front of the window click your mouse and see what others will see!

There are two basic types of design and planning software available:

1. Software that your purchase and own, that will reside on your computer, in a similar manner to any other computer program.
2. Software that you pay a monthly or yearly service fee, that resides on a companys remote computer server that you manipulate via your computer.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both products.

Additional information on design software. Home improvement, remodel and landscaping information.

Installing Ceramic Tile in a Shower

Installing ceramic tile in a shower starts with a proper Foundation. The Foundation consists of WonderBoard or Durock cement board on the walls and a Shower Pan Membrane Liner in the shower floor, if the shower floor is to be tiled too.

WonderBoard or Durock cement board, also known as backerboard, are resistant to water and are ideal materials for applying ceramic tiles to high-moisture areas. Durock can be applied directly to wall studs and ceiling joists using hot-dipped galvanized nails or galvanized wood screws.

Thin-set or an adhesive mortar can be applied directly on the WonderBoard or Durock cement board for attaching the ceramic tiles. However, fiberglass mesh tape should be applied over all seams and smoothed out with a latex thin-set prior to the application of ceramic tiles.

If ceramic tile is desired on the floor of the shower as well, then a shower pan membrane liner should be installed prior to the installation of the WonderBoard or Durock cement board. The shower pan membrane liner is used to ensure a leak-proof shower. Shower pan membrane liners are used to funnel any water that seeps through the floor or wall grout to the shower drain below. The shower pan membrane liner is made up of a flexible type of plastic material that sits below a bed of mortar, and the tile, in the shower floor area.

Prior to installing the shower pan membrane liner, the floor of the shower needs to be pre-sloped to ensure that the water will flow towards the shower drain assembly. The pre-slope is accomplished by applying a layer of mortar to the floor of the shower unit area. The layer of mortar is troweled in such as way as to create a gentle slope from the shower wall edges to the center of the shower where the drain resides.

Once the pre-slope mortar has cured, the flexible shower pan membrane liner can then be installed. There are a couple of types of shower pan membrane liners on the market, with each having their own benefits. With either type of membrane, the homeowner needs to form and fold the material into the base of the shower area and secure it to the sides of the shower wall frame with staples and/or nails. In addition, an opening in the membrane should be cut out to allow the adjustable shower drain assembly to slip through.

With the shower pan membrane installed, the cementitious ceramic tile backerboard can then be secured to the framed shower walls. The backerboard is a rigid material that is ideal for attaching tile in wet areas such as a shower stall.

After installing the ceramic tile backerboard, a final coat of mortar needs to be applied on top of the shower pan membrane to protect it and to provide a solid base for laying the ceramic floor tile.

With the final coat of mortar cured, the ceramic tile can then be installed in the shower.

Once the tile and grout have been installed, the shower drain assembly should be adjusted so that the drain height sits flush with the finished ceramic tile floor.

For more information on installing a shower pan membrane liner, see the Shower Pan Membrane Liner Installation EBook from HomeAdditionPlus.com. The Shower Pan Membrane Liner EBook will quickly teach you the step-by-step process for installing the shower pan membrane liner correctly. It includes instructions on framing the shower stall, pouring the pre-slope and shower base mortar, and installing the shower pan membrane liner.

Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

New Bark House Stopping Traffic!

When my husband and I bought a vacant lot near Charlotte Street ten months ago, we only considered one material for the exterior as we got ready to build a house there: poplar bark shingles. We were used to seeing 100-year-old chestnut bark houses farther up in the mountains, and wanted that same kind of no-maintenance durability for our new Asheville home.

Apparently not many Asheville residents are used to seeing all-bark houses, though, because the construction site has been stopping traffic since the bark went up in the fall.

Today, chestnut bark is no longer available since a blight wiped out all the trees. However, poplar bark shingles are a worthy substitute, and because I was writing a book about poplar bark shingles, we felt no reservations about that material. My co-author, Chris McCurry, is one of the owners of Highland Craftsmen, the company in Spruce Pine, N.C., that produces the shingles.

Poplar bark is a reclaimed forest material which would otherwise be mulched, burned as industrial fuel, or left to rot on the ground after commercial timber operations. Instead, squared by hand, then kiln-dried and carefully wrapped until installation, the shingles provide a hardy exterior cladding that never needs paint or stain.

Poplar bark shingles are being used not only for homes all over the United States, but also for commercial applications. The shingles range from " to 1 " thick, depending on grade, and come in various lengths and widths. They require careful installation over a plywood substrate and a layer of roofing felt, but once nailed in place according to manufacturer's guidelines they remain flat and stable for decades.

Our lot's small dimensions -- 3,900 square feet, or .09 acre -- dictated a small building footprint, in this case 30' X 32'. That includes a 24' X 24' two-story core of heated space linked by an 8' X 8' bump-out stairwell, with covered porches upstairs and downstairs in the Asheville bungalow style.

Builder Frank Wilson of Candler has overseen construction, with Asheville carpenter David McCaslin hand crafting stairway and porch railings from locust poles. Custom cabinetry by Carl Hankins, owner of Asheville's Kitchen Concepts (cabinet55@charter.net) looks like fine furniture instead of just cupboards.

The downstairs consists of a great room with kitchen and living/dining room, flanked by a guest suite with bathroom; upstairs there's an office and spacious master suite. The house has an energy-saving on-demand water heater and only an under-counter refrigerator, and the covered porches should diminish the need for air-conditioning.

One observer said, "It looks like it rose from the ground." That's exactly the feel that poplar bark shingles give a building. A squirrel took off running up the back of the house once the bark was on.

Nan Chase's first book, Asheville: A History, has just been published by McFarland, and her book Bark House Style: Sustainable Designs from Nature, with Chris McCurry, will be published in June 2008 by Gibbs Smith.

Author: Janet Marie http://www.abandre.com (This is one of the most popular articles that went out in our Christmas newsletter)

Highland Craftsmen (company who produces the bark shingle siding) http://www.barkhouse.com